The mountain sentinel (Ebensburg, Pa.), August 14, 1851. “The New Costume.” The Mountain Sentinel. (Ebensburg, PA), Aug. 14 1851. https://www.loc.gov/item/sn86071377/1851-08-14/ed-1/.
An 1851 letter (“The New Costume”) to the editor of The Mountain Sentinel fiercely defends the controversial Bloomer costume, named after Amelia Bloomer, a women's rights advocate and editor of the feminist newspaper The Lily. While not the inventor of the style (it was created by Elizabeth Smith Miller), Bloomer popularized the look by wearing it and advocating for dress reform in her publication. This sparked a national conversation about women's clothing and its connection to societal expectations.
The costume, featuring shorter skirts and trousers, challenged Victorian norms by allowing women greater freedom of movement. Critics decried it as immodest and unfeminine, but supporters, like the letter's author "Amicus," praised its comfort and health benefits compared to the restrictive corsets and long skirts of the era. Though the Bloomer costume's popularity waned, it remains a powerful symbol of women's fight for equality and self-expression.
This 1851 letter to the editor defends the then-controversial Bloomer costume, offering a glimpse into debates about women's fashion and societal norms in nineteenth-century America. Teachers and students will find the author's passionate arguments, use of rhetorical devices, and engagement with opposing viewpoints compelling. The letter's exploration of themes like gender roles, self-expression, and social change provides opportunities for classroom discussion and connection to contemporary issues. Additionally, the letter's accessible language makes it an ideal primary source for introducing students to historical analysis.
An 1851 letter (“The New Costume”) to the editor of The Mountain Sentinel fiercely defends the controversial Bloomer costume, named after Amelia Bloomer, a women's rights advocate and editor of the feminist newspaper The Lily. While not the inventor of the style (it was created by Elizabeth Smith Miller), Bloomer popularized the look by wearing it and advocating for dress reform in her publication. This sparked a national conversation about women's clothing and its connection to societal expectations.
The costume, featuring shorter skirts and trousers, challenged Victorian norms by allowing women greater freedom of movement. Critics decried it as immodest and unfeminine, but supporters, like the letter's author "Amicus," praised its comfort and health benefits compared to the restrictive corsets and long skirts of the era. Though the Bloomer costume's popularity waned, it remains a powerful symbol of women's fight for equality and self-expression.
- What are the main arguments "Amicus" uses to defend the Bloomer costume?
- How does "Amicus" portray the critics of the Bloomer costume? What language and tone do they use?
- Imagine you are a woman living in 1851. What might your reaction to the Bloomer costume be? Why?
- How does this letter reflect the difficulties women faced in the past in terms of self-expression and challenging societal norms?
- Can you think of any modern-day examples of clothing choices that are considered controversial or challenge traditional gender norms? Explain.
- What can we learn from this historical debate about the relationship between clothing, identity, and social change?
Missouri Learning Standards
MLS.9-10.RI.2.B: Analyze how an author uses rhetoric to advance point of view or purpose.
- After reading the letter, students can analyze the rhetoric the author used to craft their argument. They can later assess the impact of the various rhetorical devices on the author’s overall argument.
MLS.11-12.RI.2.D: Evaluate an author's argument and reasoning for effectiveness, validity, logic, credibility,and relevance of the evidence.
- After reading the letter, students can evaluate the reasoning and evidence of the argument the author makes throughout the letter.
- Teachers can connect this historical letter to contemporary and canonical texts to create a richer learning experience that bridges past and present. Students can explore enduring themes, compare and contrast different perspectives, and gain a deeper understanding of the ongoing struggle for gender equality and self-expression. Below are suggested literary pairings:
- Little Women by Louisa May Alcott: Students can read Alcott's novel and make connections between topics she touches on (like gender roles, societal expectations, and female self-expression in the nineteenth century) and the topics explored in the letter. Furthermore, students can compare and contrast Jo’s character to the author of the letter as they are both writers and have a rebellious spirit. They can use the hexagonal thinking strategy from the NCTE site to make such connections.
- Students can supplement the text set listed in this lesson plan from ReadWriteThink on Considering a Feminist Perspective when writing personal letters to express their perspectives on culturally significant topics
- Social Conservatives: Some might object to the letter's challenge to traditional gender roles and its association with the Bloomer costume, which they might view as immodest or promoting a "radical" feminist agenda. They might argue that it undermines traditional values or confuses children about gender norms.
- Religious Groups: Certain religious groups might find the letter's implicit critique of traditional religious views on women's roles and attire objectionable. They might believe it promotes ideas that conflict with their religious teachings.
- Censorship Advocates: Groups concerned with censorship in education might argue that the letter's discussion of clothing and bodies is inappropriate for younger students or that it exposes them to controversial ideas. They might advocate for stricter control over classroom materials.
- Advocates for "Traditional" History: Some might argue that focusing on topics like dress reform detracts from more "important" historical events and figures. They might believe classroom time should be dedicated to traditional political and military history.
Links to resources for approaching those topics
- Educators can use resources like Coming of Age in a Complex World or Preparing Students for Difficult Conversations from Facing History’s website as support.
- The bloomer costume: This image compliments the source as it’s a visual of the clothing discussed in the letter.
- Elizabeth Smith Miller: bloomer costume: This print includes a photo of the bloomer costume and a brief text that compliments the letter.
- This video from PBS about Amelia Bloomer provides a visual reference for the letter to the editor.
- Who Else Loves History is a YouTube channel with 27.5K subscribers and has this video about the St. Louis Bicycle Bloom .
- The website Free Thought Trail has a color photograph of the Bloomer costume, and an extensive article on why suffragists adopted this type of clothing.